I visit Netherby Hall, where ancient history, stylish modern comforts, and Michelin-starred food all meet

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Waking up at Netherby Hall, just a stone’s throw from the Scottish border, is to experience a unique and wonderful weight - the weight of a very special place not only imbued with historical significance, but situated in what can only be described as magnificent natural beauty.

Once coveted by the Romans and caught up in the royal machinations of Tudor and Stuart politics, the Grade II listed Netherby Hall has deep roots dating back to the time of Hadrian, but can trace its more modern lineage to the mid-16th century. Then home to the locally-famous Graham family, the house has an indisputable aura: being here is to stand in the midst of history.

It’s only once I started up the sweeping driveway and crossed the small brook that I began to truly appreciate the grandeur of Netherby Hall, the stately home silently appearing from amongst the trees. Peaceful, immaculate, and humming with that measured and stately atmosphere which pervades such historic buildings, it’s truly a sight to behold.

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Netherby Hall

Warmly welcomed by the estate’s generous owners Gerald and Margo Smith, as well as the friendly staff who help keep Netherby Hall ticking over, I was treated to a private tour alongside Henry and Mungo, the Smiths’ two black labs. I was taken by Gerald’s passion and historical knowledge, which shone through; for him, the ownership of Netherby Hall is a labour of genuine love.

From the spectacular ballroom-style hall - now used to host musical events - to the medieval spiral staircase and its smooth foot-grooves carved by centuries of steps, I found it easy to be charmed by Netherby Hall’s labyrinth of rooms and passages. The whole place is wonderful - tastefully renovated, it’s a historic treasure with new life breathed into its bones.

Netherby HallNetherby Hall
Netherby Hall | Jack Marshall

We climbed the 16th century pele tower and admired the views over an area once known as the Debatable Lands, due to the fact that it was home to outlaws on both sides of the border. It was at times like this that the massive history of the place hit me: Gerald recounted the story of how bandits once propped a ladder up against the very window at which we stood to pilfer the lady of the house’s jewellery. With the occupants distracted by a grand dinner party downstairs, the thieves escaped, shooting a policeman as they fled before being apprehended at Tebay.

With Netherby Hall’s interior thoroughly explored, I then went out to the home’s grand Walled Garden to meet Head Gardener Lorraine Pearson, who took me on a fascinating tour of the hall’s sprawling horticultural operation which provides fresh local produce for the local Michelin star restaurant (more on which later). From peaches and pumpkins to wildflowers and delicate nasturtiums, the garden - whilst hampered by the wet summer - is a true haven.

The Walled Garden at Netherby HallThe Walled Garden at Netherby Hall
The Walled Garden at Netherby Hall | Jonathan Becker

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The Walled Garden at Netherby HallThe Walled Garden at Netherby Hall
The Walled Garden at Netherby Hall | Netherby Hall

After heading back to my on-site accommodation in the sleek, spacious, and spotless Salutation apartment for a quick refresh, I emerged once again to the sound of clip-clopping hooves and the miraculous sight of my suited-and-booted hosts Gerald and Margo driving a magnificent horse-drawn carriage in full coattails and top hats. Clambering aboard, I was whisked away in style.

The journey was absolutely brilliant. Kindly transported by an energetic pair of horses by the names of Jake and Flash, I stretched out in the back of the ornate carriage, decked out in plush leather and fine detailing, and enjoyed what was a much smoother than I’d anticipated. Trotting along bucolic country roads, we headed towards the renowned Michelin-starred Pentonbridge Inn.

One of the nine luxury self-catering apartments at Netherby HallOne of the nine luxury self-catering apartments at Netherby Hall
One of the nine luxury self-catering apartments at Netherby Hall | Jonathan Becker

Margo and Gerald during a carriage ride from the hall to Pentonbridge InnMargo and Gerald during a carriage ride from the hall to Pentonbridge Inn
Margo and Gerald during a carriage ride from the hall to Pentonbridge Inn | Jonathan Becker

It was there that I was served to one of the most singularly impressive meals I’ve ever had the pleasure of eating. We started with French toast and chicken liver canapes, a delicate cheese and ale soup, scallops scattered with veg from the walled garden, and a flawless cut of halibut. But my mind was well and truly blown by what was yet to come.

Melt-in-the-mouth beef cutlets in a lamb jus with beef belly, creamy mash, and a Scotch egg-adjacent chorizo-style concoction, which was one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. Then desserts: a flawless milk ice cream with fresh honey and almond cake, a stunning strawberry pavlova, and a round of four small cakes with a pot of tea. It was culinary heaven. I returned to Netherby Hall thoroughly impressed by both the stupendous food and the impeccable service.

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Some of the stunning food on the eight-course tasting menu at Pentonbridge InnSome of the stunning food on the eight-course tasting menu at Pentonbridge Inn
Some of the stunning food on the eight-course tasting menu at Pentonbridge Inn | National World

The following morning, crisp sunlight streamed through ancient windows, a thin morning mist dissolving over the greens and gravel of the pristine grounds. In the warm July sun, I toured the renovated stables, admiring their immaculate condition and the minute attention to detail apparent in the refurbishment project.

And therein lies the crux of Netherby Hall: it’s an ancient place which carries with it a great responsibility undertaken by Gerald and Margo. But, at every juncture and in every aspect, their respect for that very same history is palpable, because Netherby Hall is a place where history matters.

For more information on Netherby Hall and to book a stay, head to https://netherbyhall.co.uk/ To book a table at Pentonbridge Inn, head to https://pentonbridgeinn.co.uk/

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