Jamie's Air Fryer Meals review: Jamie Oliver cashes in on the air fryer craze, but makes a dog's dinner of it all
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In about 30 years' time, whatever replaces Channel 5 will show clips of Jamie's Air Fryer Meals (Mon, Channel 4, 8pm) as part a show in which AI-generated talking heads reminisce about how the world went mad for a new type of kitchen gadget.
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Hide AdThis new show from the nation's favourite Essex-based kitchen whiz showed us how you can expand the range of meals you can cook in the suddenly-popular must-have culinary counter-top clutter.
At the start of the show, Jamie tells us: “I want to see how far I can push it... I want to show you just what this new friend in the kitchen can do.”
To be fair to the now fully-clothed chef, he's following in an honourable tradition when it comes to celebrity cooks adjusting to new technology – after all, back in 1987, everyone's favourite cooking granny Mary Berry released a book of her 'Favourite Microwave Recipes'
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Hide AdAnd some of these recipes do look lovely, using the air fryers USP of fast heat to cook fish, whole chickens and veg – sorry, “veggies” - to perfection.
However, you suspect that Dame Mary didn't sprinkle her microwave masterwork with plugs for the latest manufacturer.
Jamie's Air Fryer Meals, in contrast, has two hour-long episodes sponsored by Tefal, in which he uses Tefal products – several of them – in which to cook his dinners.
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Hide AdIn the background of Jamie's kitchen are gleaming machines offering the promise of easy, nutritious meals in moments: machines with two drawers; machines with one drawer; sleek black models or shining stainless steel models.
Which is all very well, but you have to have a store cupboard of spices, you must buy lemongrass and curry leaves, sugar-snap peas and lime leaves and as many fresh herbs as the local supermarket stocks.
Even Poppy O'Toole, the self-styled 'Queen of Potatoes, and one of the guest chefs he has on – for no discernible reason, other than it gives Jamie a rest for five minutes – has links to Tefal through sponsored segments on her TikTok account.
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Hide AdIt's hard to be critical of Jamie, when he's done so much to encourage people to cook, when he's genuinely done a lot to remind people that cooking something from scratch can be quick and easy, and when I've got five or six of his cookbooks.
But this show – even besides O'Toole – bears all the hallmarks of being made in response to two things – social media and commercialism.
Channel 4 haven't been that shy about it, either. In pre-publicity Katie Millard, executive producer for Jamie Oliver Productions, said: “Working with our long-term partner Tefal, Jamie was able to respond to the huge public demand for more air fryer recipes.”
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Hide AdYou can't help thinking that the “huge public demand” would have gone unsatisfied without the involvement of a certain French cookware manufacturer.
Meanwhile, the style of the thing – quick cuts, a permanent soundtrack, and lots of hyperbole – is all geared towards the quick hit of a social media video.
Peach Alaska is “an absolute joy”, cheesy scones are “a revelation”, and at one point Jamie is “kind of going on a pesto vibe”.
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Hide AdThere's very little detail to the recipes, meanwhile, with everything designed to push you to scan a QR code, visit a website, download an app – capturing your data, ready for that promotional email from Tefal.
I'm sorry to be cynical, but this is a cynical programme, seemingly made solely because of a sponsorship deal, and a placeholder before Jamie's real new series – a seasonal offering about spring cookery – begins on Monday.
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