Restaurant review: Freemasons At Wiswell, Clitheroe BB7 9DF

Dining on a Wednesday evening with my partner, the restaurant was reassuringly busy, with a steady hum of conversation lending warmth to the low-lit, characterful interior.

Equally warm was our welcome from Mike and his team who immediately made us feel at home.

Set against its picturesque rural backdrop near Clitheroe, The Freemasons continues to deliver the kind of relaxed yet polished ambience that has long made it a destination in East Lancashire and beyond.

Diners can choose from a six-course set menu for £85 per person. We opted for the more relaxed dinner menu which had a nice range of options, costing £39.50 for three courses or £34.50 for two courses.

The menu reflects a confident, ingredient-led approach, and our meal began with two thoughtfully constructed starters. A plate of Tamworth ham was elevated with pickled vegetables, mustard, and golden raisins – each element bringing balance, from sweetness to acidity, without overwhelming the quality of the meat. Alongside this, a delicate Cornish crab dish paired the freshness of the seafood with apple, pickled kohlrabi, and preserved lemon, resulting in a bright and precise opening to the meal.

For our main courses, my partner and I opted for two ‘specials’ – fillet steak and lemon sole. Other options from the menu included poached free-range chicken, honey-glazed duck breast or fillet of cod.

Main courses demonstrated both technical skill and a respect for classic combinations. A 28-day aged fillet of beef, cooked with Himalayan salt, was rich and deeply flavoured, the seasoning enhancing rather than masking the quality of the meat.

My choice was the equally impressive 10oz sole, cooked on the bone and served with brown butter, capers, lemon, and parsley – a timeless combination executed with care. Accompaniments of stem broccoli and potatoes were simple but well-judged, allowing the main elements to shine.

Desserts continued the theme of refinement and balance. A salted white chocolate creation, paired with almond sorbet, almond crumb, and delicate milk crisps, offered both texture and restraint in sweetness.

The second dessert – a sable biscuit with caramel custard, goat’s milk, coffee, and bitter chocolate sorbet – was perhaps the more complex of the two, delivering depth and contrast in every bite.

To drink, a pint from Bowland Brewery provided a fittingly local touch, complementing the food without fuss.

Mike’s impressive career includes time at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire, Hambleton Hall in the Midlands, Aubergine in London, and Gilpin Lodge in the Lake District.

Mike also worked at the former Restaurant Neat in Cannes, which was opened by British chef Richard Neat and won a Michelin star. Key awards for The Freemasons include being named AA Restaurant of the Year for England, consistently ranking in the top five of the Top 50 gastropubs, and achieving a five gold star rating for its rooms from the AA.

Overall, the experience suggests that under Mike Shaw’s guidance, The Freemasons is maintaining its strong reputation while subtly evolving its offering. With confident cooking, carefully considered flavours, and a welcoming atmosphere, it remains a standout choice for dining in the Ribble Valley.