Travel - Nimes
Preston was twinned with the beautiful French city of Nimes, the birthplace of denim, in 1955. United by a shared textile history both cities have undergone some huge changes. Travel writer Sareda Dirir rediscovers some of the nicest things about our Gallic twin.
Late spring is a beautiful time to visit the Languedoc Rousillon region of France.
Wild irises line the roads alongside the sun-dappled coppery chestnut trees – it's the most verdant time of year in the South of France.
The Languedoc Rousillon region itself is a collection of five departments, Aude, Herault, Gard, Pyrenees, Orientales and Lozere.
After flying in to Nimes, take a taxi (around 30 Euros) or a coach (around eight) to the heart of the Lozere – the Cevennes National Park.
A great place to stay is the charming Le Mas de Coupetadou – a rustic French bed and breakfast, set in acres of magnificent Cevennes countryside.
In his previous life, the owner, Stephane du Pre, was an award-winning nutritionist in Paris and the food reflects this. Homegrown ingredients, delicious and organic, served up with sophisticated Parisian flair.
The local aperitif is a great place to begin – Kir Chataigne, a warming mixture of chestnut syrup and white wine.
If you fancy a little gentle exercise after lunch, take a trip to the Pont de Montvert to follow in the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson.
The writer arrived in the area in 1878 and promptly decided to make an epic journey across the Cevennes countryside with a donkey called Modestine.
The ensuing adventures were immortalised in his book Travels Across the Cevennes with a Donkey and today, hundreds of people descend on the area for the same low-carbon trip.
If you're looking for new culinary experiences then you might wish to have lunch at the famous mushroom eaterie, Auberge du Cevennes at the foot of the mountains.
The hills around the restaurant are home to more than 90% of European mushroom species, and the owner, Monsieur Camus knows fungi like other people know wine. My favourite is Cepes – flat velvety, with an explosive, peppery burst of flavour.
For history much earlier than Robert Louis Stevenson, stay at Le Mas Nouveau in Genolhac, a beautifully-restored 12th-century farmhouse, at the foot of Mont Lozere.
The gite enjoys spectacular views across the valleys. Once again, the menu is natural, fresh and local.
Vegetable soup to start, followed by nettle and asparagus quiche and Cevennes lamb.
Le Mas Nouveau has been lovingly restored by owner Christine, using natural and traditional techniques.
Around every corner there are fascinating historical clues to explore – the ancient bread oven discovered behind two metres of concrete, the snail motif on the stone floor, linked to the mysterious Knights Templar.
The rooms are spectacular and at first glance the six-foot-wide granite baths would seem like a huge eco-sin.
Until that is, you realise that the bath is filled with naturally warm, fresh spring water.
If you are travelling with children, you may prefer to stay at Mas des Oliviers between Ardeche and the Camargue.
This bed and breakfast has a large outdoor play area and if the weather is bad, the house itself has a myriad of hidden corridors and secret passageways that children will have great fun exploring.
Families will also enjoy the medieval castle Cheylard D'Aujac, which is being lovingly restored by the eccentric artist and writer Gilbert Leautier.
The Languedoc Rousillon region is famous for its chestnut forests – and there is a deep connection between locals and the so-called Bread Tree. For thousands of years people have used the wood and fruit in their food, wines and medicines.
To discover more, visit La Clede, one of the few traditional chestnut smoking houses left in France.
Owner Monsieur Peyric comes from 10 generations of chestnut smokers and has created his very own chestnut museum at the top of the Aujac hills.
On request he will bring out the terrifying Chestnut Shelling Shoes – wooden clogs with dozens of vicious looking six-inch iron nails in the sole. These were used as recently as 1970 to 'stamp out' the fruit!
Monsieur Peyric is also a master-beekeeper and promotes traditional bee-keeping across the region.
The honey in this region tastes like nothing else on earth – a nectar infused with the heavenly fragrance and taste of wild heather, chestnuts and mountain flowers.
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Weather for Preston
Thursday 09 February 2012
Today
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