Restaurant - English
Alan Burrows visits... Michael's in Birkdale
Here's some insider info about the world of newspaper restaurant reviews. This whole eating out malarkey starts when the Features Editor edges up to you like a low-grade drug dealer on a bus station forecourt and gives you his instructions.
In return all he asks for is 500 words and the missus gets to eat in places in which I would never consider forking out 60 notes of my own money - where sauces are drizzles, afters are sweets and everything has a place of origin, even though half of us wouldn't know the difference between Madagascan vanilla pods and your bog standard Zanzibarians.
I also get the opportunity to give the impression that I know a know a Portobello mushroom from a closed cup and a sun blushed tomato from one that isn't blushing at all.
But I do know what I like...good scoff at a reasonable price.
Michael's lies in Birkdale, an upmarket village next to Southport, where owner Michael Wichmann needs to be on his toes - demonstrating that he's picked up some tips on his culinary world tour which has spanned the Michelin-starred La Truffe Restaurant at the Park Hotel in Frankfurt, the Savoy in London and similar top notch eateries in Hong Kong and Dubai.
I hit the 14.95 menu, a fine deal which included a glass of wine, while my wife just went for it.
Off she went, wolfing down the smoked haddock risotto (6.50), which was topped with a poached egg and in a minted green pea sauce, stopping once for air before sighing with satisfaction. I savoured the baked goat's cheese, which had been marinated in honey and balsamic vinegar and came on a herb salad and the afore-mentioned sun blushed tomatoes - and it was so luxurious I would have quite happily finished there. Top drawer.
Dutifully, I sampled Jude's main course choice: a roasted pork fillet stuffed with Armagnac prunes, served on a creamy sweet potato puree, with green beans and a little sweet wine sauce (13.95). The meat was succulent and contrasted perfectly with the sweet prunes - and the dish passed the test that I could never cook it at home if I live to be 150.
I opted for the oven roasted North Atlantic cod wrapped in Parma ham and fresh basil leaves, which was juicy, the soft white flakes set off by delicious ham. That came with tomato risotto, garlic baby spinach and a basil oil.
To top it off, a delicious crme brulee, bearing with the sweetest rhubarb known to man.
Mr Wichmann knows what he's doing. I hope he gets the backing he deserves.
As it says on the menu: "Good food that is freshly cooked takes time to arrive - thank you for your patience'.
I don't mind waiting for quality, presented beautifully, with friendly staff and a non-pretentious atmosphere.
Location: Michael's is at 47 Liverpool Road, Birkdale Village, Southport. Tel: 01704 550 886
Opening Times: Tuesday- Friday from 6pm. Closed Sunday and Monday
Special Offer: Midweek customers can take advantage of the set menu of starter, main course and glass of house wine available for 14.95 on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday evenings
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Thursday 29 July 2010
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